News from the Cupping Table

  • Why do different coffees taste so different?

    Why do different coffees taste so different?

    We’ve recently received several questions asking about why coffees taste different. Here are some answers that should help unravel the complexities of what affects the taste of your coffee.

     

    Ultimately, the flavor you find in the cup comes from a multitude of factors. Different species, varietals, cultivar’s all will taste different if every other aspect of their growth, processing and brewing method is identical. Basically, we are talking about different kinds of seeds. This may sound confusing but stay with me.

     

    As with wine, the terroir or sum of the environmental factors where coffee is grown are hugely important in determining the taste of coffee. These differing elements affect how the plant grows, what nutrients it has available and ultimately, the varying quantities of sugars, proteins, lipids and organic acids that develop during growth. Whatever the environment coffee is grown in, once harvested, or picked, it’s a race against time to preserve that quality.

     

    After harvesting, we come to the next step, processing. The coffee you drink every day is an extraction from the seeds of a coffee cherry. Each processing method varies the sensory profile of a coffee. You can just pick the cherry and let it dry whole (natural), you can take the skins and fruit off and dry it (pulped natural) or take the skins, fruit and pectin layer off and then dry it (washed). Each one impacts the flavor differently; this variation means we can start with the same seed, grown in the same area, with the same inputs while it is growing and get a different taste profile as a result of our processing method. The natural will be more fruit focused, the washed higher acidity and more complexity. Pulped natural can be in between them.

     

    Once processing is complete, there is a huge possibility to have a negative impact on flavor, shipping and storage. Not done correctly, the coffee can get moldy or old, off flavors. Coffee must be handled with love and care throughout the whole supply chain.

     

    The next step is turning the green coffee beans into brown coffee beans, roasting. We can take the same coffee and roast it lighter (brighter, higher acidity), darker (bigger body, higher bitterness), medium (marriage of both). We can even roast to the same relative roast “color”, and it can taste different. From here, storage and transportation come into play again. Was the coffee packaged soon after roasting to preserve flavor and protect from other flavors and odors getting into it? Was the coffee purchased and/or brewed close to the time of roasting? 

    The final step – brewing. As you can imagine by now, yes, taking the same coffee and brewing it on different devices, can alter the sensory profile of a given coffee. Some coffees shine on some brew methods better than others, some shine on all.

     

    Next time we will explore some of the most popular brewing methods.

     

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  • How roasting and brewing contribute to what makes specialty coffee

    How roasting and brewing contribute to what makes specialty coffee

    In our first blog post, titled What is Specialty Coffee, we alluded to the fact that considering a coffee to be specialty grade wasn’t just about how coffee was grown, harvested and transported. Proper roasting and proper brewing remain before a cup of great coffee can be enjoyed as specialty coffee. Let’s look at each of those steps.

    Our coffee beans have changed hands several times and have now made their way as green beans to become roasted coffee. Ric Rhinehart, former Executive Director of the Specialty Coffee Association (SCA), refers to the roasting step as revelation. Why revelation? Simply put, the roaster must accurately identify the potential for the coffee, properly developing the flavors during the roasting process and ultimately properly packaging the roasted product. The finest green coffee in the hands of an unskilled roaster, using equipment that is not operating properly, using poor packaging materials or practices can all lead to disaster, thus undoing all the care taken to bring specialty beans to this stage of the process. Provided that all goes well here, and the coffee’s potential remains intact, there are two remaining steps before the long chain of custody that is unique to coffee ends in the consumption of a specialty coffee beverage.

    After roasting and before brewing, the coffee must be ground. Grinding is best done as close in time to brewing as possible, as many delicate aromatic compounds are fully released upon grinding. And the dramatic increase in surface area necessary to effect brewing also opens the coffee to rapid oxidation and staling. The size of the ground particles is also important and driven by the method of brewing to be employed. Too fine a grind for the selected brewing process and the coffee may be destroyed by over extraction (bitter cup). Too coarse a grind and the coffee may never develop its full flavor potential in the cup (weak cup).

    Finally, after every step from coffee tree to the end consumer has been carefully orchestrated, the final process must take place—the coffee must be brewed. Whether the coffee is to be prepared as an espresso, as drip coffee or in a steeping method like a French press, the exacting application of standards of water quality, brewing temperature, coffee to water ratio and extraction must be applied to create a specialty coffee beverage.

    We will explore each of these 4 critical factors in future blogs.

    So, how do we define specialty coffee? Well, in the broadest sense, we define it is as coffee that has met all the tests of survival encountered in the long journey from the coffee tree to the coffee cup. More specifically, we measure it against standards and with methods that allow us to identify coffee that has been properly cared for. For example, while it is not possible to inspect every bean from every farm at the point of harvest, or during processing or drying or shipping, it is possible to employ the standards developed by the SCA to make a meaningful judgment on the preparation of the coffee through aspect grading and to employ a standard cupping protocol to assess the quality of the cup and to discover any defects caused by poor practices that result in a loss of potential for the coffee.

    In the final analysis, specialty coffee will be defined by the quality of the product, whether green bean, roasted bean or prepared beverage and by the quality of life that coffee can deliver to all of those involved in its cultivation, preparation and enjoyment by the consumer. A coffee that delivers satisfaction on all counts and adds value to the lives and livelihoods of all involved is truly a specialty coffee.

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  • Climate and price

    Climate and price

    To some, coffee is just a morning jolt to start the day.  Or maybe a “keep me focused” drink when I need a lift. When you look at coffee as a global commodity, it is one of the world's most traded products-top 10 in value in the world economy.  As an industry, it employs millions of people around the world through its growing, processing and trading.  Most of the production occurs in developing countries with 75% of the coffee being grown on farms of 10 or fewer acres.  To those farm families, it’s not merely a business - coffee is their life. On the consumer end, most of coffees consumption is in industrialized countries where big business controls the fate of producers. Did you know that coffee accounts for nearly half of the total net exports from tropical countries and is in many ways representative of the economic and agricultural issues that developing countries face today? One of the most concerning agricultural issues facing coffee production is climate change.  Here are a few facts you may not know about that cup of morning joe we enjoy each day and why we believe we should all care.

    Key points:

    Global coffee prices have surged 21.6 per cent this year

    Climate change and global supply chain issues are behind the rising cost

    Importers of specialty beans from Brazil have been hit with a 40 percent price hike

    Those annual figures are the average of monthly prices of Arabica (highest quality) and Robusta (lower quality, commercial) green, or raw coffee beans. 

    "We have not seen that type of price peak since 2014," said Suzy Oo, senior industry analyst at IBISWorld, who compiled this data.

    This means coffee drinkers could soon be paying more or be served a poorer-quality brew instead, as global price hikes hit the local coffee industry.

    What's behind the price rise? Climate change-related weather events have affected key coffee-producing regions and global supply chain issues are hurting importers.

    Brazil, the world's largest coffee producer, accounts for about half of the world's supply. Drought and severe frost have wiped out a large percentage of crops there, as well as in some Central American countries. Moving around the globe, drought in North Africa has also affected the supply from that region, while increased shipping costs have added to the price rise. 

    We’re watching the markets very closely and holding the line on prices in the face of these changes.  One thing will never change.  You will always receive fresh roasted coffee from Cupper’s Choice sourced from the finest Arabica beans.  Your coffee will always come from sustainable farms where we ethically produce, process and ship to your door.  Prices may change, but our values and quality will stay true.

    Ron and Tracy

     

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  • The Origins of Coffee - a brief review

    The Origins of Coffee - a brief review

    Several years ago, I wrote an article entitled, A Brief History of Coffee.  I am reposting it here, with a few updates, and hope you will find this informative.

    Ethiopian legend says that a goat herder named Kaldi noticed that his goats seemed energized after eating the berries from a certain tree. They even had trouble sleeping at night.  The legend goes on to say that Kaldi presented his findings to the abbot of the local monastery who made a drink from the berries and experienced the same effect – even allowing him to stay alert during his long hours of prayer.  Other monks were likewise affected and the word began to spread.

    Legend or not – coffee has changed the world in several significant ways.

    Those berries were the “cherries” from these Ethiopian coffee trees that have since spread to countries around the world. Spreading from the forests of Ethiopia, coffee first moved out into the Arabian Peninsula.  By the 15th century, coffee was being grown in the Yemeni district of Arabia and by the 16th century it was known in Persia, Egypt, Syria, and Turkey. And before we ever heard of Starbucks, coffee houses were popping up everywhere as patrons gathered to drink what was referred to as “the wine of Araby”.

    Coffee continues its spread into Europe

    Travelers from Europe returned with stories of this “new brew” and coffees popularity continued to spread. This spread did not occur without controversy.  Suspicion of its origins and effects caused it to be banned in Venice until Pope Clement VIII stepped in.  He tasted it, liked it and blessed it.  Coffee was on its way to a place in history. Coffee houses sprang up in every major city, with the beverage replacing beer and wine as the breakfast drink of choice.  People gathered, discussed and debated the topics of the day (no WiFi yet) and enjoyed conversations. Factoid - in London, where there were over 300 coffee houses, the world famous Lloyds of London was birthed in Edward Lloyd’s Coffee House.

    Coming to America

    In New Amsterdam, later renamed New York, is where coffee got its start in America.

    Once introduced, coffee houses rapidly began to appear. But it wasn’t until the Boston Tea Party in 1773, when the colonists revolted against a heavy tax on tea imposed by King George III, that coffee began to replace tea as the preferred hot beverage. Things have not been the same since.

    Cultivation spreads to other parts of the world

    Credit the Dutch with moving coffee into many areas of the globe. The Dutch finally got seedlings in the latter half of the 17th century. Their first attempts to plant them in India failed, but they were successful with their efforts in Batavia, on the island of Java in what is now Indonesia.  

    The plants thrived and soon the Dutch had a productive and growing trade in coffee. They then expanded the cultivation of coffee trees to the islands of Sumatra and Celebes.

    An interesting and fateful event was the presentation of a coffee plant to King Louis XIV of France, which was planted in the Royal Botanical Garden in Paris. In 1723, a young naval officer, Gabriel de Clieu obtained a seedling from the King's plant. Despite a challenging voyage — complete with horrendous weather, a saboteur who tried to destroy the seedling, and a pirate attack — he managed to transport it safely to Martinique.  

    Once planted, the seedling not only thrived, but it’s credited with the spread of over 18 million coffee trees on the island of Martinique in the next 50 years. Even more incredible is that this seedling was the parent of all coffee trees throughout the Caribbean, South and Central America.

    The famed Brazilian coffee owes its existence to Francisco de Mello Palheta, who was sent by the emperor to French Guiana to get coffee seedlings. The French were not willing to share, but the French Governor's wife, captivated by his good looks, gave him a large bouquet of flowers before he left— buried inside were enough coffee seeds to begin what is today a billion-dollar industry.

    Missionaries and travelers, traders and colonists continued to carry coffee seeds to new lands, and coffee trees were planted worldwide. Plantations were established in magnificent tropical forests and on rugged mountain highlands. Some crops flourished, while others were short-lived. New nations were established on coffee economies. Fortunes were made and lost. By the end of the 18th century, coffee had become one of the world's most profitable export crops. And now, coffee is one of the most sought after commodities in the world.

    So, enjoy that cup of coffee armed with a little more knowledge about something most of us take for granted. 

     

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